Blooming in polyurethane-coated fabrics: a literature review of a conservation challenge in collections

Inês Soares; Joana Tomás Tomás Ferreira; Mariana Passos; Susana França de Sá

doi:10.14568/cp44660

Autores

Inês Soares LAQV-REQUIMTE and Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University of Lisbon, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1137-1467
Joana Tomás Tomás Ferreira LAQV-REQUIMTE and Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University of Lisbon, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2961-1468
Mariana Passos LAQV-REQUIMTE and Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University of Lisbon, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal https://orcid.org/0009-0000-7052-6831
Susana França de Sá LAQV-REQUIMTE and Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University of Lisbon, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2445-9361

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14568/cp44660

Palavras-chave:

Plásticos, Têxteis, Depósitos esbranquiçados, Moda, Design, Ácido adípico

Resumo

Este artigo apresenta uma revisão crítica da literatura sobre o blooming em tecidos revestidos com poliuretano termoplástico (TPU). O blooming, tipicamente descrito como depósitos esbranquiçados à superfície, constitui um fenómeno de deterioração comum em TPUs de coleções de moda e design. Com base em estudos da ciência dos polímeros, fontes industriais e investigação em conservação, analisa-se como o blooming tem sido definido, investigado e abordado na prática da conservação. A literatura identifica dois mecanismos recorrentes para o blooming: a migração de aditivos como processo físico, e a hidrólise como processo químico, frequentemente associada à formação de ácido adípico. Estudos centrados em conservação permanecem limitados, existindo poucos casos focados na limpeza e no acondicionamento. A revisão evidencia variabilidade na terminologia, nas causas e nas práticas de conservação descritas na literatura. Ao sintetizar o conhecimento atual e identificar as principais lacunas, esta revisão contribui para o desenvolvimento de estratégias interdisciplinares de conservação.

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