Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy

Joana Tomás Ferreira; Sander De Vrieze; Eline van der Velde; Kim Verkens; Susana França de Sá

doi:10.14568/cp34830

Authors

Joana Tomás Ferreira Department of Conservation and Restoration and LAQV-REQUIMTE, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, Portugal http://orcid.org/0000-0002-2961-1468
Sander De Vrieze Centexbel, Technologiepark-Zwijnaarde 70, 9052 Gent, Belgium
Eline van der Velde Centexbel, Technologiepark-Zwijnaarde 70, 9052 Gent, Belgium
Kim Verkens Department of Textile Conservation and Restoration, Fashion Museum of Antwerp, Antwerp, Belgium
Susana França de Sá Department of Conservation and Restoration and LAQV-REQUIMTE, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, Portugal http://orcid.org/0000-0003-2445-9361

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34830

Keywords:

Thermoplastic polyurethane, Poly(vinyl chloride), Coatings, Cross-section, Synthetic textiles, Heritage conservation

Abstract

Synthetic-coated fabrics, often made of short-life expectancy coatings, namely plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p‑PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), are challenging to preserve. These materials are poorly studied within the conservation field, and there is a lack of research and solutions for their preservation. This study aimed to provide insight into the yet unknown variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics in fashion collections. The subtle differences in layer construction and morphology were investigated in a selected set of materials to unveil production methods and better understand delamination damages, namely peeling and flaking. Optical microscopy provided primary material assessment, complemented by ATR-FTIR for molecular identification. A wide variability of synthetic-coated fabrics was reported and connections between morphology, production methods and delamination damages were suggested. Optical microscopy proved to be a powerful tool in the study of the stratigraphy of coated fabrics, enhancing material knowledge for more informed conservation decisions.

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