Para além da superfície: um estudo sobre a estratigrafia de tecidos com revestimentos sintéticos em coleções de moda e amostras comerciais através de microscopia ótica

Autores

  • Joana Tomás Ferreira Department of Conservation and Restoration and LAQV-REQUIMTE, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, Portugal http://orcid.org/0000-0002-2961-1468
  • Sander De Vrieze Centexbel, Technologiepark-Zwijnaarde 70, 9052 Gent, Belgium
  • Eline van der Velde Centexbel, Technologiepark-Zwijnaarde 70, 9052 Gent, Belgium
  • Kim Verkens Department of Textile Conservation and Restoration, Fashion Museum of Antwerp, Antwerp, Belgium
  • Susana França de Sá Department of Conservation and Restoration and LAQV-REQUIMTE, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, Portugal http://orcid.org/0000-0003-2445-9361

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34830

Palavras-chave:

Poliuretano termoplástico, Poli(cloreto de vinilo), Revestimentos, Corte estratigráfico, Tecidos sintéticos, Conservação do património

Resumo

Os tecidos revestidos, frequentemente compostos por revestimentos efémeros, como o poli(cloreto de vinilo) plastificado (p-PVC) e o poliuretano termoplástico (TPU), são materiais de difícil preservação. Estes materiais são ainda pouco estudados na área da conservação, existindo uma lacuna de investigação e soluções para a sua preservação. Este estudo visa demonstrar a variabilidade dos tecidos revestidos com p-PVC e TPU em coleções de moda. As diferenças subtis na construção e morfologia das camadas de um conjunto de materiais foram investigadas, para desvendar métodos de produção e melhor compreender danos causados por destacamento, nomeadamente peeling e flaking. Os materiais foram analisados por microscopia ótica, complementada por ATR-FTIR para identificação molecular. A ampla variabilidade destes tecidos é apresentada e sugerem-se relações entre morfologia, métodos de produção e danos por destacamento. A microscopia ótica provou ser uma ferramenta vantajosa neste estudo, permitido um avanço no conhecimento para decisões de conservação mais informadas.

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Publicado

2024-09-10

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Tomás Ferreira, J., De Vrieze, S., van der Velde, E., Verkens, K., & França de Sá, S. (2024). Para além da superfície: um estudo sobre a estratigrafia de tecidos com revestimentos sintéticos em coleções de moda e amostras comerciais através de microscopia ótica. Conservar Património. https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34830

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