Real or faux leather? Luxury or ready-to-wear mass production? Characterization of three TPU shoe coatings (ca. 1970) from the Kunstmuseum Den Haag fashion collection

César Rodríguez Salinas; Livio Ferrazza

doi:10.14568/cp34780

Autores

César Rodríguez Salinas Kunstmuseum Den Haag, Stadhouderslaan 41, 2501 CB Den Haag, Netherland https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9694-2275
Livio Ferrazza Institut Valenciá de Conservació, Restauració i Investigació- IVCr+i-, Carrer de Genaro Lahuerta Pintor, 25, La Saïdia, 46010 València, Spain https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4357-2979

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34780

Palavras-chave:

Poliuretano termoplástico (TPU), Charles Jourdan, Gucci, Ácido adípico, SEM-EDX, ATR-FTIR

Resumo

Durante a década de 1970, a transição da indústria do calçado de pele verdadeira para pele sintética originou questões sobre a transparência dos materiais utilizados e o custo real da produção. Estariam as marcas de luxo conscientes da qualidade dos produtos que ofereciam aos consumidores, em comparação com outras marcas de pronto-a-vestir? Ou, por outro lado, estariam estas marcas apenas a seguir as tendências da indústria da moda possibilitadas pela introdução de materiais substitutos da pele natural? Através do estudo de três sapatos da coleção de moda do Kunstmuseum Den Haag, foi possível comparar os materiais usados por marcas de luxo famosas, como Charles Jourdan ou Gucci, com aqueles usados por marcas menos conhecidas, de produção em massa, como Valentina. Os resultados obtidos com diferentes técnicas analíticas (OM, SEM-EDX, ATR-FTIR) revelaram semelhanças entre os materiais das marcas de luxo e das marcas de produção em massa, bem como padrões de degradação semelhantes.

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