Material analysis versus historical dye recipes: ingredients found in black dyed wool from five Belgian archives (1650-1850)

Natalia Ortega Saez; Ina Vanden Berghe; Olivier Schalm; Bert De Munck; Joost Caen

doi:10.14568/cp2018025

Autores

Natalia Ortega Saez University of Antwerp, Faculty of Design Sciences, Heritage Department, Campus Mutsaard, Blindestraat 9, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium
Ina Vanden Berghe Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage (KIK/IRPA), Jubelpark 1, 1000 Brussel, Belgium https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2053-6000
Olivier Schalm University of Antwerp, Faculty of Design Sciences, Heritage Department, Campus Mutsaard, Blindestraat 9, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8705-7293
Bert De Munck University of Antwerp, Faculty of Arts, History Department, Grote Kauwenberg 18, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium
Joost Caen University of Antwerp, Faculty of Design Sciences, Heritage Department, Campus Mutsaard, Blindestraat 9, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14568/cp2018025

Palavras-chave:

Tingimento de preto, Lã, Arquivos belgas, au-de-campeche, Pau-de-campeche, Taninos, Anil, Mordente de ferro

Resumo

A relação entre a investigação bibliográfica e arquivística e a investigação baseada em objectos históricos constitui um ponto de partida fundamental para o estudo de antigas técnicas de produção. Várias fontes documentais dão uma imagem de como se tingia de preto no passado. Contudo, nada garante que estas receitas sejam representativas de uma sociedade no seu todo ou que fossem praticadas pelos próprios tintureiros. A análise química de têxteis históricos constitui um método eficaz para verificar a proximidade entre práticas de tingimento e fontes documentais. Este artigo foca-se na identificação dos ingredientes usados no tingimento de lã com cor preta num conjunto de têxteis históricos datados (1650-1850) e em excelente estado de conservação de cinco arquivos belgas e noutros objectos históricos. Os resultados são comparados com o saber tecnológico associado aos métodos de tingimento e aos ingredientes descritos segundo as fontes documentais da época. O objectivo é o de afinar o conhecimento sobre os ingredientes usados no tingimento de preto no noroeste da Europa durante o período em questão.

Recebido: 2018-6-17
Revisto: 2018-12-20
Aceite: 2019-1-4
Online: 2019-3-10
Publicação: 2019-4-30

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