Turkey red prints: identification of lead chromate, Prussian blue and logwood on Turkey red calico

Julie H. Wertz; Anita Quye; David France

doi:10.14568/cp2018019

Authors

Julie H. Wertz Centre for Textile Conservation, University of Glasgow, 56 Dumbarton Road, Glasgow G11 6AQ, UK https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1926-2038
Anita Quye Centre for Textile Conservation, University of Glasgow, 56 Dumbarton Road, Glasgow G11 6AQ, UK https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6962-6018
David France School of Chemistry, University of Glasgow, Joseph Black Building, University Avenue, Glasgow G12 8QQ, UK https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5409-3316

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14568/cp2018019

Keywords:

Turkey red calico, Pigments, SEM-EDX, FTIR, UHPLC

Abstract

In this research, printed Turkey red calico from the 19th century is analysed using conservation-based techniques to identify the materials used in their manufacture. Turkey red production was a significant industry in Scotland, and the textiles found in archives and collections are a valuable part of Scottish heritage and material history. Turkey red prints were produced via a unique dyeing process followed by discharge printing, and the analysis in this paper using SEM-EDX, FTIR, UHPLC, and microscopy confirms they were made as documented in the literature. Here, we show that lead chromate, Prussian blue, and logwood were used to create the distinctive prints. These results are useful to develop material-specific guidelines for storage and display for improved conservation and collection accessibility.

Received: 2018-6-12
Revised: 2018-10-28
Accepted: 2018-10-31
Online: 2019-2-3
Publication: 2019-4-30

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