The challenge of cellulose nitrate-coated fabrics: molecular characterization of celluloid detachable collars and Fabrikoid

Artur Neves; Joana Tomás Ferreira; Robert Friedel; Maria Elvira Callapez

doi:10.14568/cp34829

Authors

Artur Neves Centro Interuniversitário de História das Ciências e da Tecnologia (CIUHCT), Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade de Lisboa, Campo Grande, Lisbon 1749-016, Portugal; Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Science and Technology, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Campus Caparica, Monte de Caparica 2829-516, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4491-9217
Joana Tomás Ferreira Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Science and Technology, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Campus Caparica, Monte de Caparica 2829-516, Portugal; LAQV-REQUIMTE, NOVA, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2961-1468
Robert Friedel Department of History, University of Maryland, 2115 Francis Scott Key Hall, College Park, Maryland 20742, USA https://orcid.org/0009-0001-4769-0868
Maria Elvira Callapez Centro Interuniversitário de História das Ciências e da Tecnologia (CIUHCT), Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade de Lisboa, Campo Grande, Lisbon 1749-016, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2461-363X

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34829

Keywords:

Cellulose nitrate, Castor oil, Coated fabrics, Material culture, Cultural heritage, Conservation

Abstract

In the 19th century, significant linen and leather imitation products were invented using cellulose nitrate-coated fabrics, including celluloid detachable collars and Fabrikoid artificial leather, now preserved in the Hagley Museum and Library, USA. Using optical microscopy, µRaman, and µFourier Transformed Infrared spectroscopies, this study highlights the need for characterizing the heterogeneity of these materials at the microscale. While the detachable collars have well-preserved fabric coatings composed of cellulose nitrate, camphor, anatase (TiO₂), and carbon-based particles, Fabrikoid’s pigmented cellulose nitrate-castor oil systems show problems. Our molecular data align with a 1922 report on Fabrikoid degradation, revealing free fatty acids and carboxylates formed due to oil oxidation. This is concerning as these materials were used until the 1960s, demonstrated by the analysis of objects from the National Museum of Costumes in Portugal. Future studies should address the compatibility of cellulose nitrate with fatty acids and the reactivity of additives in these systems.

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