The challenge of cellulose nitrate-coated fabrics: molecular characterization of celluloid detachable collars and Fabrikoid

Artur Neves; Joana Tomás Ferreira; Robert Friedel; Maria Elvira Callapez

doi:10.14568/cp34829

Autores

Artur Neves Centro Interuniversitário de História das Ciências e da Tecnologia (CIUHCT), Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade de Lisboa, Campo Grande, Lisbon 1749-016, Portugal; Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Science and Technology, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Campus Caparica, Monte de Caparica 2829-516, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4491-9217
Joana Tomás Ferreira Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Science and Technology, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Campus Caparica, Monte de Caparica 2829-516, Portugal; LAQV-REQUIMTE, NOVA, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2961-1468
Robert Friedel Department of History, University of Maryland, 2115 Francis Scott Key Hall, College Park, Maryland 20742, USA https://orcid.org/0009-0001-4769-0868
Maria Elvira Callapez Centro Interuniversitário de História das Ciências e da Tecnologia (CIUHCT), Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade de Lisboa, Campo Grande, Lisbon 1749-016, Portugal https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2461-363X

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14568/cp34829

Palavras-chave:

Nitrato de celulose, Óleo de rícino, Tecidos revestidos, Cultura material, Património cultural, Conservação

Resumo

No século XIX, foram desenvolvidas imitações de linho e couro utilizando tecidos revestidos com nitrato de celulose, como os colarinhos destacáveis de celulóide e o Fabrikoid, preservados no Hagley Museum and Library, EUA. Usando microscopia óptica e espectroscopias de Raman e infravermelho, este estudo destaca a necessidade de caracterizar a heterogeneidade destes materiais. Enquanto os colarinhos têm revestimentos bem preservados, compostos por nitrato de celulose, cânfora, anatase (TiO₂) e partículas à base de carbono, os sistemas de nitrato de celulose e óleo de rícino do Fabrikoid são problemáticos. Os dados moleculares revelaram a formação de ácidos gordos livres e carboxilatos devido à oxidação do óleo. Tal revela-se preocupante, pois a análise de objetos do Museu Nacional do Traje em Portugal demonstrou a utilização destes materiais até 1960. No futuro, a compatibilidade do nitrato de celulose com ácidos gordos e a reatividade de aditivos deve ser explorada em detalhe.

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